Lip-Pencil
Monday, January 9, 2012

  Tutorial: Jem and the Holograms' Kimber Benton at Literature Couture

January 9th, 2012 by Jenn

Yes, I did it: I created the closest thing to a 1980s hair-metal tutorial I think I’m ever going to do. This entry is another in the series of creepy doll tutorials (let’s face it; any look that reminds you of a Rat concert is kind of creepy.)

Here is the photo I used as my guide:

Materials

  • blue circle lens
  • saline solution
  • makeup primer (I used Urban Decay De-Slick setting spray)
  • liquid foundation (I used Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation in Alabaster 00)
  • liquid luminizer (I used NARS Illuminator in Copacabana)
  • concealer (I used Vapour Organic concealer in Light)
  • iridescent loose powder (I used MAC Magically Cool Liquid Powder in Truth and Light)
  • navy blue eye pencil (I used Make Up for Ever Aqua Eyes in 3L)
  • yellow beige shadow (I used Make Up for Ever shadow in #126)
  • turquoise eye pencil (I used Make Up for Ever Aqua Eyes in 7L)
  • brown or black liquid liner (I used LA Splash liquid liner in Merlot)
  • white eye pencil (I used Make Up for Ever Aqua Eyes in 14L)
  • pink eyeshadow (I used LA Splash Hydra Liquid Shadow in Flirtatious)
  • pink eyeliner (I used Urban Decay 24/7 pencil in Woodstock)
  • nude lip pencil (I used NARS lip pencil in Tonga)
  • light pink lipstick (I used MAC Pro Longwear Lipcreme in Overtime)
  • black shadow pencil (I used Ulta eye crayon in Black Tie)
  • foam pad for wig
  • wig cap
  • red wig with bangs

Directions

1. Insert blue circle lens.

2. Apply makeup primer.

3. Mix a dab of liquid luminizer into your liquid foundation. This mixture will make your skin glow and provide that porcelain-doll look if you have less-than-perfect skin.

4. Apply foundation/luminizer mix with a foundation brush.

5. Use concealer to cover blemishes and other imperfections.

6. Set foundation and concealer with a shimmery powder. Remember, we’re going for super-high glow here, so don’t be afraid of sparkle. Be careful to not overpowder; you definitely don’t want a matte face for this look.

7. Lightly line the upper and lower waterline with a navy blue pencil:

8. Dust a yellow-beige shadow on lids from lashline to crease. This shadow is going to act as your primer:

9. Take the aqua/turquoise pencil and draw arched brows over your own natural brows. (If you have really dark brows, use theatrical wax to cover brows, then apply foundation and powder over the brows before breaking out the liner).

10. The next thing we’re going to do is fake an animation eye crease. To accomplish this, first take a black or brown liquid liner and mark out a dot below the beginning of the blue brow; this is your guideline:

11. Use the same liquid liner to carefully draw a diagonal line from the dot to the middle of  your lid’s natural crease (if you have one; if not, just go to the approximate center of the eyelid). Continue to draw the line to the outside corner of the eye:

12. Take the white eye pencil and draw a rectangle to use as a guideline for the pink eye makeup. Start at the outer corner of the blue eyebrow and end at the outer 1/3 of the lower lashline:

13. Fill in the rectangle and your lid from the false crease to the brow with a pink shimmering shadow:

14. To  add intensity to the pink, draw over the shadow with a pink eyeliner:

15. In the interests of looking as much like the photo as possible, I skipped shadow on the lower lid below my false crease; I also skipped mascara. Feel free to add these in if you wish; some fake lashes would make the look even more dramatic.

16. Use the nude lip pencil to extend the lower lipline below your natural one. Square off the edges of the lip to look more cartoon-y (see the photo I used for reference) and exaggerate the Cupid’s Bow. Since this is such an 80s look, I didn’t bother to blend the lip pencil; I wanted it to be as fake-looking as possible.

17. Apply a pale pink lipstick to the inside of the lines:

18. Add dimension to the lips by lining the place where your lips meet with a black shadow pencil:

19. Gather your hair close to your head and cover with a wig cap. To get really, really big metal hair, I used a foam prosthetic under the wig to get additional height:

20. Place the wig on top of the prosthetic and check for fit. Style the wig and you’re ready for spandex, airbrushed vans, and acid-wash denim:


 
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